I found this 1983 Coleman 222 Peak 1 lantern along with several other stoves and lanterns for sale locally a few months ago. Since my first backpacking lantern, a 222A, I’ve learned that it’s worth a little time to replace the two O-rings which seal the valve stem and the On/Off valve so that I don’t have fuel leaking from the valve and also so it turns off properly.
I thought that being a 222 that it would be different internally from my 222A, but this one wasn’t. The first clue should have been the On and Off valve positions on the label, however, I didn’t know this. Early models had three valve positions and a correspondingly different internal fuel pickup.
The other giveaway was the generator specified. Even though the 222A would arrive a year or two later and be black, the generator specified on the label was a 222A. Basically, the later 222 is a brown 222A.
As would be typical for a manufacturer like Coleman, they used up old inventory when possible. When I began disassembling the lantern I found something peculiar. There were two BB’s in the mount where the threaded rod gets installed. Looking at photos of the earlier 222 founts I could see that the mount was taller on the old ones so, they used the two BB’s to raise the short threaded rod for this later model 222. This meant that only two threads were holding the lantern together. I didn’t like this, but removing the BB’s made the rod too short to attach the burner assembly. So I cut a piece of ¼” x 20 TPI threaded rod to a length of maybe ¼” longer to use without the BB’s. This worked better.
I took apart the generator for cleaning since, unlike the newer generators for the 226 and 229, is easily disassembled.
Another little surprise was that generator was stamped with the Coleman “Sunshine of the Night” sun logo and the text “COLEMAN MADE IN CANADA”. I’ve never seen this before on any Coleman generator.
Next, I removed the valve from the fount. Coleman used thread locker on the valve to fount threads and also on the F/A tube to valve body threads. The parts came apart, but the F/A tube was a bit difficult and there seemed to be no avoiding marring the F/A tube brass. A little heat may have made it easier, but I wasn’t sure if I’d melt the O-ring and make a mess.
As you can see there are two Fluorosilicone O-rings used which are easy to replace. These were still pretty pliable, however, the #009 used on the valve stem does get flat after some years and can leak. I believe they used these because they are easy to replace, so why not just do it as a preventative measure?
I checked the neoprene pump cup and it was still pliable without any cracks that I could see, so I left it in place for now. These are also not too difficult to replace, so should it fail I’ll just swap it out. I also thought the check valve stem was an unusual shape as compared to the typical square stem, so I included it in the photo.
Reassembly went pretty easy, but remember to install the eccentric block from the F/A tube end before installing the F/A tube, because you can’t do this from the top. I wish Coleman would have figured out a way to do this so that the valve wouldn’t need to be removed to change the seal. Oh, well.
With everything back together, I burned-in a new #20 mantle, added fuel, pumped it up, put a match to the mantle and turned it on. It lit after about 30 seconds. Nice!
I was also fettling a brown Coleman 400 stove at the same time. They are a good backpacking pair and even quite nice for a minimal car camping kit.
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